Hi, I'd like to level my frets but I need a couple details explained to me before I can get started. Is there a way to sand and level the fingerboard while still maintaining the original compound radius or do you kinda have to go by eye? I also need to know how to make fret pullers out of pliers. Thanks.
PS - Can you change the crown of your frets to a more narrow profile?
Hi, I'd like to level my frets but I need a couple details explained to me before I can get started. Is there a way to sand and level the fingerboard while still maintaining the original compound radius or do you kinda have to go by eye? I also need to know how to make fret pullers out of pliers. Thanks.
You can get radius blocks from luthier suppliers... make sure you check the radius of your fretboard. This will ensure you don't mess up the curve on your fretboard.
From the same luthier supplier, you should be able to get a pair of fret claws which are designed to grasp the frets from underneath for a nice clean removal. If done wrong, you could splinter the wood around the slots where the frets sit.
As for the actual refretting and levelling/crowning; it's back to the luthier suppliers for your fret wire, fret slot saw/file, fret hammer, fret levelling file, fret crowning files, etc... For everything you need to do a proper job, you're looking at a minimum of £100... then you have to make sure you do a decent job otherwise you'll end up having to pay a pro to fix it for you.
you can probably make various radii leveling blocks on the cheap, given patience and tools, but I agree with lc333: you should probably get most of these somewhat arcane tools from a luthier supply house.
AFA actually doing the work: shaping a compound radius may be challenging, as it will require a fair bit of skill using several, different-radius blocks. as lc333 notes, fret removal can be tricky. example: on some guitars, the frets are pressed in from the side instead of (more typically) from the top. pulling out those frets from the top will do a lot of damage. I believe Fender has used the side method on some of its maple 'boards. I recommend spending $15 to $20 USD on Guitar Player's (same as the magazine) guitar repair book by D. Erlewine. it covers your current questions, as well as those that inevitably will arise in the midst of your work.
a link to Steward McDonald, not the cheapest place to buy, but comprehensive in its offerings:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Leveling.html
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